The region south of Thessaloniki is visibly scarred by the Greek financial crisis. That actually surprised and shocked me in equal measure. Although tourism is slowly picking up again, abandoned villages, half-finished buildings and many closed stores are evidence of very difficult times everywhere. Let’s hope that the situation can finally change again soon – because there is so much to discover and experience here.
We stayed at the Ekies all senses resort in Vourvourou for a week. A design hotel that was just voted one of the “100 Most Beautiful Hotels in Europe” (Geo Saison 2015). The facility is not that small with about 60 rooms. For the most part, however, architecturally cleverly designed, so that the size hardly matters. Above all, the many small and larger buildings of the complex are embedded in the natural landscape. Trees and forests as far as the eye can see, in some cases some particularly old and large trees are integrated directly into the buildings. A restaurant opens onto the bay, its window fronts sliding completely aside on two sides to connect the interior, garden, beach and sea. Here you can start the day with a nice breakfast while looking out over the bay and the many small and larger boats anchored here. The bar invites you for a sundowner – the service extends down to the sunbeds on the beach. And of course there is also an extensive evening menu. However, we were not satisfied with the kitchen at all. Ambition and reality don’t quite fit together here at the moment. Just as canned fruit at the breakfast buffet doesn’t fit in a region so rich in great fresh fruits and produce. However, this is perhaps the only major criticism of the hotel, which is now in its tenth year under the management of Alexandra Efstathiadou.
You don’t have to worry about culinary (outside the hotel) at all. Because both within walking distance, directly along the small sandy beach, is the Gorgona I Poulman, a typical small tavern with daily fresh fish menu. In a few minutes by car you are in Nikiti, a small harbor town whose beach promenade is lined with restaurants and bars. Not all that glitters and courts guests is gold here, but we discovered at least two fabulous restaurants. First and foremost Grada Blu, with a direct view of the sea and the lighthouse, great fish and the best salads and vegetable dishes we found during our days in Greece. The clientele in the place is very much Russian. Perhaps due to its close proximity to the Danai Beach Club, one of the most glamorous hotels on the peninsula. It is also home to Squirrel, which in turn is considered one of the best restaurants in the country. A total of only six tables are available – unfortunately we couldn’t get hold of any of them. On the other hand, what more could you want than delicious, fresh fish from the sea, as well as salad and vegetables that really live up to their name here…