The culinary interested Stockholm traveler is spoiled for choice. Apart from the fantastically beautiful city, there are a number of extremely promising restaurants to visit. For me, the two usual suspects were at the top of the list: The Frantzén/Lindeberg and the Matsalen by Mathias Dahlgren. If I write now that in both houses no more table was to be gotten, this could sound like the beginning of a sad history. Not so in Stockholm. After further research and advice (and a tip from Johan, from Fäviken) I finally made a reservation at Sjögräs. Conveniently located a few steps from our accommodation, the highly recommended Hotel Rival.
Sjögras (recently awarded the Bib Gourmand) seats about 40 people. Here, the tables are grouped around a counter enclosing the open kitchen. We were lucky enough to get a seat in the back, somewhat quieter area.
Before we’ve even chosen our menu, this little basket arrives with three kinds of bread: Dark Rye Bread, Sour Dough Bread and Crisp Bread with fennel. The small, dark breads on the right stand out in particular. Light, airy, yet incredibly intense and with hints of Christmas spices and gingerbread. In combination with the Verneuil butter a dream.
As an appetizer I chose a foie gras, which was unfortunately served here on a plate that was far too small and equally too colorful for my taste in combination with crispy skin from the chicken, small cubes of pork belly and pear. Even if you don’t quite imagine it at first, the extremely crispy poultry skin in particular adds a texture component to the dish that is otherwise often missing from foie gras combinations. Crisp, intense and together with the sweet and sour pear really round.
I then chose much more local for the main course: Back of reindeer calf, in blood cream, combined with kidneys and turnips. Reads much more exotic than it tasted. The meat was wonderfully tender and on point, the sauce really lived up to its name, together with the fresh vegetables a nice but exceptional combination.
One of Sjögräs’ specialties is its large rum collection, said to include nearly four hundred varieties. In the dessert Rom och Choklad three varieties are served in combination with matching chocolate for tasting.
We had a wonderful evening, not least thanks to the very friendly and at the same time pleasantly unpretentious service. An unconditional recommendation, not only when the tables in the very well-known houses are not available…
