I owe my spontaneous visit to Jøwåy in Nuremberg’s Old Town to a lucky recommendation. Johannes Hannweg has been running the friendly and stylish little restaurant in Hutergasse since 2020. Its roots as a wine bar and Hannweg’s great enthusiasm for local producers are still unmistakable. In recent years, the culinary offering has been significantly expanded and offers a small à la carte selection and a menu that can be arranged in versions between three and six courses (6 courses, as I chose, for 135€, plus wine accompaniment 95€).
Two small amuse and a very good, home-baked focaccia start the menu. The first course is peas. Grilled peas to be precise. This is accompanied by a pea créme with Chardonnay vinegar, blackcurrant gel and charcoal emulsion. This is fresh, spring-like and a fine, very individual prelude.
A Breton sardine is the protagonist of the next course. Lightly grilled, it is combined here with piment d’Espelette as a crème, ginger gel and an apple-Szechuan vinaigrette. Slight spiciness and intense acidity form a nice contrast to the fish. Served with a glass of Grüner Veltliner from Schloss Halbturn.
Carrot in aspic, finely diced and pickled carrot, served with tarragon gel and soil and a jalapeño-saffron vinaigrette. If the menu had indicated that it was prepared in aspic, I would probably have skipped this course. Wrongly, as it turned out. Once again a course with spiciness and acidity – and, thanks to the excellent vinaigrette, much more exciting than my initial association would have suggested. The Gewürztraminer from Donaubaum in the Wachau can keep up very well with its dense fullness.
Perhaps the best course of the evening: Norway lobster (lightly fried and in ravioli) with a hearty duck consommé. The intense broth is the star here, without completely masking the crustacean. Johannes Hannweg also made a great choice with the Chardonnay from Saint Veran in southern Burgundy.
In the next course, a Franconian organic wagyu from Aufsess is served, crispy fried and presented pure. Kimchi and wasabi mayo lead the way in an Asian direction. Soontofu, a Korean stew, is served on another plate, here in a vegetarian version. Spicy, tasty, top. Served with a Château Beaumont Cru Bourgeois 2014.
Banana as a mousse, curry as ice cream – finely combined thanks to a caramel sauce. Even finer: a Blaufränkische Spätlese from Hans Tschida.
Jøwåy has sought and found a good place in Nuremberg’s gastronomic landscape. Dishes a little off the Franconian mainstream, without the complexity of the numerous starred restaurants in the area. It also offers good value for money, a very good feel for wines and, above all, a friendly host.
Jøwåy Nuremberg
Hutergasse 1
90403 Nuremberg
