The Henriks starts in Hamburg with high, self-imposed standards. A restaurant that reflects cosmopolitanism and personality, is how Class-Henrik Anklam describes his new project. After stations in the country house Scherrer as well as in the Tarantella, he opened together with his wife Claudia Anklam few weeks ago the doors at the Tesdorpfstrasse.
Inspired by the world’s hottest restaurants, be Henriks. Fantastically located it is in any case. Centrally located, in the immediate vicinity of the Dammtor train station, directly between the new Hamburg SAP headquarters and the Hotel Grand Elysée and yet with an unobstructed view of the countryside, directly onto the large Moorweide.
Much more than the view of meadows and trees, however, I was interested in looking at the menu. Lobster in various forms, Fine de Claire, Sylter Royal, caviar, truffles and lots of grilled beef of international provenance come together there, almost a bit arbitrarily complemented by Italian or Asian dishes as well as two sides of different champagnes, with a great emphasis on products from the house of Dom Perignon.
The set ambitions are clearly recognizable, both the location and the furnishings are really superb, but on a culinary level the Henriks could not convince us. The appetizers, especially the tataki, were not a revelation in terms of taste, and the presentation was almost amateurish and uncharitable. The Cocoa, a thin puff pastry base with cream cheese and salmon, meanwhile, quite tasty and uncomplicated. The fillet steak (€39.90) was also okay, though cooked well beyond medium-rare and actually a bit boring. The fact that sauces, even a herb butter, are still charged with surcharges between 2.90 € and 5.90 € may surprise, as well as the calculation of the open wines, nevertheless, for example, a 0.2l glass of Sancerre with 9.90 € costs more than the double of the half glass.
In principle, these are all details that will probably still settle in, just like the currently still existing large construction site on the terrace. We especially liked the truffle fries, served in a large caviar tin, and these alone justify upcoming visits.
We’ll see how Henriks develops over the next few months. For the time being, the concept of an exclusive location and an equally exclusive menu seems to be working well, but in the medium term, the kitchen will have to follow suit in order to meet the same standards.
Henriks Bar & Restaurant
Phone 040 288084280