Currently, Noma in Copenhagen is serving Seafood Season again. And since February 2019 it is again listed in the ranking of the Guide Michelin – again with two stars. In my view, that continues to be an undervaluation. Because Noma is also setting standards in its new location – and not just for Nordic cuisine, by the way. It had been closed for a long 20 months before moving to its new space in the Christiana neighborhood. Since the beginning of 2018, three different menus have been offered over the course of the year. I was looking at the Seafood menu at the time, reason enough to take a look back at an extraordinary concept.
Copenhagen is anyway and always worth a trip. And the new Noma even more so. My stay in the Danish capital on this visit lasted exactly four and a half hours – and even for lunch, that was pretty close. But also extremely rewarding.
At Noma 2.0, the moment you step out of the cab, you immediately feel like you’re in a parallel world. One that is almost perfect. Before the long entrance to the restaurant, the guest is still personally greeted at the driveway and guided along the many new buildings to the main house. The new area is laid out on the waterfront like a small village. Small buildings stand next to each other, merge into each other or are connected by glass-roofed corridors. Stepping into the main building, you are greeted by the kitchen and service team. At the entrance. Any guest. Logistically, this is certainly a nightmare, because actually now is insanely busy in all areas of the restaurant and actually no time at all for such efforts – but it is the perfect welcome and immediately loosens up the entire atmosphere.
The guest room is bright, wooden, and has floor-to-ceiling glass on two sides with views of the outbuildings and the water. At the same time, everything is very casual, very relaxed, there is a lot of laughing, drinking and enjoying at the ten tables. This atmosphere alone is worth the visit. Of course, this may vary, but this exuberant good humor and omnipresent joy for this special menu was evident at many tables. On ours above all. I was having lunch with a group of foodie friends from England, California and Israel.
Part of the kitchen is directly visible from most tables, where many of the day’s courses are prepared or finalized. First of all, one is amazed at the very large team that works within the kitchen and in the service in a highly professional, concentrated and calm manner and takes care of the guests. However, this is basically only a very small part of the team, because the adjoining parts of the building house further kitchens, laboratories, rest areas for the team, storage, butchery, office, documentation, library and other special areas.
All of this can no longer be measured by normal economic standards and is hardly comprehensible. But also in this respect, Noma has always been positioned differently. Ultimately, though, I’m not here to get an idea of the business environment, but to experience the Seafood Season.
It is the sum of many details that continues to make Noma one of the most exciting culinary destinations. Of course, the unique location plays a supporting role, then the friendly and relaxed, but at the same time highly professional team. But above all, it’s the dishes that excite me. Everything seems simple and coherent, the product is always at the center. Whereby some courses strongly alienate the product, change it or bring it into completely new forms of preparation. The menu changes three times a year: Seafood Season (January to June), Vegetable Season (June – September) and Game & Forest Season (October – December).
My next trip will be dedicated to Wild & Forest Season – I’m excited….
noma
Refshalevej 96
1432 Copenhagen K
Website: https://noma.dk
E-mail: noma@noma.dk
Phone: +45 3296 329
