Whereby the map changes very frequently at the moment. Many products are not permanently available, so the kitchen must act flexibly and adapt to the market situation. But this is not a disadvantage, but rather a circumstance brought about by the smaller producers with whom Marcel Görke works. And the guests who come regularly are thrilled anyway.
The response is good. Very well, in fact. Of course I’m especially happy about that, since I was allowed to accompany the project already before the start(see here) and also contribute the logo. But most of all, of course, I’m happy for Marcel and his young team. Opening a new restaurant is always a big gamble. Not least, of course, a financial one. So much the better if it gets off to such a good start. In the meantime, all the processes have been perfectly coordinated and Marcel has made himself at home in the extremely large kitchen and created his creative refuge.
To start, there is a homemade bread with a delicious whipped nut butter and a little greeting from the kitchen. Yesterday in the form of a wonderfully intense ragout of venison.
The menu is pleasantly clear, so that two of us can try our way through almost all the dishes. An absolute highlight is then on the table with pea & carrot: Raw, marinated, cooked and crispy is the subtitle. This is not only beautiful, but a perfect snapshot of the current season. Sweet, intense and thanks to the different preparation and textures, each fork invites new discoveries and combinations – without being overwhelming. The basic product can always be clearly identified and tasted. That’s what summer tastes like!
The second appetizer is dedicated to Baltic salmon from Müritz Fishery. Tenderly cooked and lightly flamed, it is combined with apple, kohlrabi and lovage. The fresh components help the salmon to have a nice freshness and also make this dish look light and summery. The flowers of lovage add a few bitter components, which in combination with crunchy croutons provide a nice arc of tension.
All dishes can be combined á la carte or in the menu. That begins with three courses, fairly calculated for 37€ or gradually increased in four (47€), five (57€) or in six courses for 67€.
The chicken liver of the intermediate course comes from free-range farming from Schönmoorer Hof in Schleswig-Holstein. Here combined with braised onions, a potato-hay milk cheese emulsion and some oats. Sloppy, aromatic and only very delicately sautéed.
At first glance, Danish halibut seems somewhat unspectacular. But it is precisely this simple and reduced combination that makes this dish. The Vierländer tomatoes are bursting with ripe sweetness and at the same time, combined with a vinaigrette of elderflower, give a lively acidity that makes the dish seem incredibly light and fresh.
In contrast, the back of beef comes across more autumnal. Beet and crispy parsley root naturally go perfectly with Klaus Schwagrzinna’s meat, which, by the way, is very generously portioned. Perhaps I’ve been overindulging in the many light and slightly tart components throughout the evening – so I’m missing them a bit here now. Which, of course, does not detract from the enjoyment of this plate either.
This is followed by a fruity conclusion to the menu. One is a creamy semolina porridge with cherries, sage and a sorbet, the other is summer berries on basil-mint broth and an ice cream of caramelized white chocolate. And there it is again, the summery freshness and lightness that ran through the whole evening.
I’m already looking forward to the other seasons at Heimatjuwel. Here’s to new products on the menu and continuing to get creative with them. With precisely this focus on seasonal and local dishes in exceptional, but not overwhelming and excellent craftsmanship, Marcel Görke pushes into a gap that is noticeably and painfully gaping in Hamburg.