The great thing about red-carpet events is that all the attention is initially focused on the defilee of the illustrious crowd of guests. The perfect time for me to take a leisurely look around the open kitchen and have chef Dominic Schlott explain the secrets of the Southbend oven to me. At over 800 degrees, the large cuts are grilled, on one side only, constantly repositioning them to achieve even browning. An extremely hot and demanding workplace.
But the result and the effort can be seen. The extreme heat develops a perfect Maillard reaction, a crispy, caramelized dark crust develops, and the core remains Medium Rare.
The cattle, explained Eugen Block, whose middle name Theodor gives the restaurant its name, come in part from his own breeding. In the Uckermark region, a breed of its own is raised. A cross between Charolais and Fleckvieh. The restaurant further processes the meat in its own butchery and has it dry aged for at least forty days in its own aging room. In addition to its own cattle, the menu currently has a big focus on American prime beef and Australian Black Angus. A short-term addition of Irish cattle is already being planned.
The ambience draws heavily on New York concepts, which it deliberately cites. In addition, Theo’s offers a very nice little oyster bar, ideal for having an aperitif before dinner. Or an oyster. Or both. The interior of the restaurant looks high quality and professional. Fortunately, Christina Block was able to prevail over her father, who would have liked to work with many LED spots. So everything shines in warm candlelight. The service was perfect on the premiere night. Friendly, competent and always attentive. The steak, the center of the new positioning is good, very good even. This form of preparation is very convenient for me anyway, I work at home mostly with the Beefer, for results in a similar direction. After all, you can also reach 800 degrees with it. However, the sheer size of the Southbend makes for a larger heat front and thus cooks not only from above, but additionally very strongly from the side.
Overall, the Theo’s can be attested that it absolutely fulfills the goals it has set for itself. The kitchen team around Dominic Schlott knows best how to handle meat and its preparation. The selection of basic products is good, a slightly stronger focus on local animals would please me personally even better. The bottom line at Theo’s is a perfect steak, flanked by a wide variety of sides: from spinach with peanut butter to roasted cabbage to the obligatory French fries and a delicious truffled mashed potato. However, the premium concept is also reflected in the price: The steaks are between 30€ and 60€, plus. Side dishes and sauces, of course.
But here, too, the well-known maxim applies: It’s better to eat meat less often – and of better quality.
THEO’S
Rothenbaumchaussee 10
20148 Hamburg
Phone: 040 41 41 2 – 855
E-mail: info@theos-hamburg.de
