Directly connected to the King family home, a true paradise opens up. The most diverse herbs, selected vegetables, rare varieties. All planted, cared for and cherished with great care and attention to detail. Not least, by the way, thanks to herb fairy Maria. The first asparagus that just peeked out of the ground came from asparagus roots more than 60 years old, explains Johannes King. “Throw away the old things,” the saprgel farmers advise him every year. But he loves the strong bitterness of the old varieties. “You don’t find that anymore. All bred away”. So the old asparagus may stay. And so we stop at almost every bush or shrub. Everywhere there is a story to tell. Kale is also allowed to grow longer than usual. Tied tightly together, the large plant from last winter stands in a corner of the garden. Many fine young shoots are sprouting everywhere and can now be harvested. Much more delicate and far less bitter than in winter. The other side of the garden is reserved for the bees. Several bee colonies find space here and busily collect the nectar of the meadow flowers. And so we taste here and there, from purslane to bronze fennel, small flowers from lamb’s lettuce, oyster weed. Adjacent to the garden are wide, natural meadows that lead to the coast. Here in the wild, too, there are grasses and herbs to harvest almost all year round. Just like on the salt marshes and mudflats. If some craftsmen had not needed the urgent attention of the master of the house – we would probably still be standing in the garden for hours to discover everything. And let ourselves be infected by the huge enthusiasm that John King radiates here in the open air, in his garden.
So we say goodbye – but only for a few hours, after all we want to see all these products in use. At Söl’ring Hof, Johannes King’s restaurant, which has been awarded two Michelin stars. Nestled in a beautiful exclusive five star hotel on the dunes of Rantum.
Guests are spoilt for choice with a five- or eight-course tasting menu, a dedicated oyster menu and some seasonal recommendations. Before starting the trip we had requested a vegetarian version of the menu. This request was not only received friendly and as a matter of course, there was even a specially created vegetarian menu with six courses.
And the first greetings from the kitchen also took this wish into account. So we were happy to have a great start with all kinds of delicacies. And a box seat with a view into the center of the action: In the large, open kitchen, work is being done at many stations in parallel, but with such great calm as I have never actually experienced in a kitchen at this level. Not a single loud sound, no hustle and bustle – all the work steps seem to mesh seamlessly, miraculously bringing new plates constantly to the pass of chef Jan-Philipp Berner.
The menu begins with a crab from the Sylt mudflats, served in its own shell along with young shoots and pea. In the beautiful arrangement I think I can directly discover some more herbs from the garden. A very fresh course, the crab is the clear protagonist, the many fresh elements and the intense brew underline and complement it wonderfully.
The first vegetarian course on the other side of the table is centered around very similar products (without the crab, of course), but visually and sensorially quite different, even fresher and crunchier, the pea as sorbet. Also very good.
The combination of fish and shellfish is often not my cup of tea. Here, however, it does. The cod cooked to perfection even gets along exceptionally well with the cockles. A very deep stock from the seaweed contributes to this ideal marriage, as does the crispy grilled and very strong cauliflower.
This is followed by a sensational course off the menu. Tender bone marrow with a liquid egg yolk under insanely intense crumble of potato as well as some mashed potato. Wow!
On the vegetarian side, the beloved is very happy not to get marrow, but great asparagus. Also combined with potatoes and the sensational crumble.
Together with the tender milk lamb, the young kale described at the beginning then also makes its grand appearance. Only carefully cooked, it still has a slight bite and actually few, but still easily recognizable bitter substances. Also a great combination.
The rape flowers are the center of the accompanying vegetarian course. This plate is again beautiful and taste also a small sensation, exceptionally intense and full taste the flowers. Not that we had a direct comparison there – that was a first.
After this course we retire to the wine cellar of the house and here we are treated to the sweet courses of the evening.
It starts with rhubarb with hazelnut and spruce shoots. Uncomplicated and delicious.
Even more exciting for my taste is then the combination around the buttermilk. Many strong herbs surround the course and here I then also get to enjoy the rapeseed flowers (not so on the vegetarian side, because there it would have been a repetition of the product. Chapeau for so much attention!).
Since the Söl’ring Hof has one of the largest and most diverse port wine collections, we were allowed to taste a glass or two of vintage and tawny under the expert guidance of the host, as well as one or two sweet delicacies.
It was a fabulous day! Johannes King is not only a great host, but also incredibly detail-oriented and -informed in all areas. Which in turn is reflected in the selection and preparation of products, but also in the overall structure of the house. Not without reason, the Söl’ring Hof has been a real institution on Sylt for many years and the restaurant is the culinary flagship of the island.
Dorint Söl’ring Hof Rantum
Am Sandwall 1
25980 Rantum/Sylt
Phone: 04651/836200
E-mail: info.soelringhof@dorint.com
www.soelring-hof.de
