The second evening during my stay at the Traube Tonbach held a very special event: a Six Hands Dinner, led and initiated by the chef of the 1789 restaurant, Florian Stolte. Together with the two friends and long-time companions Christian Kuchler(Restaurant Taverne zum Schäfli, Wigoltingen, 2 stars) and Stefan Heilemann(Restaurant zum Widder, Zurich, 2 stars) a menu in six courses was served.
An extremely good opportunity to take a look at Swiss star cuisine – and its chefs!
We start in the menu with a nice combination of small amouse of the three protagonists. Host Florian Stolte sent a delicate tarlette with an ethereally fresh balanced crab. Stefan Heilemann’s classic duck skin, liver cream and pointed cabbage is crisp, intense and goes fabulously with champagne. Just like Christian Kuchler’s surprisingly spicy taco with water buffalo tartare.
Chawanmushi and Imperial Caviar is always a good combination. Especially when the components are so well coordinated, as in this creation by Florian Stolte. The stick scallops add depth and elegance to the dish, while the dashi and nut provide texture and yet another strong umami undertone.
The first regular course in the menu then comes from Stefan Heilemann’s team: tuna, gamba blancha, radish and dill are a wonderful combination, and not just visually. The plate is very accurately crafted and thrives on the many small accents that add either texture or additional flavor. A real challenge, with such small-scale works of art , to quickly supply the dining rooms in the Restaurant 1789 and Schatzhauser, which were filled to capacity.
However, the event took place on a Monday evening, the Schwarzwaldstube was closed and the kitchen teams were able to spread out well in the extremely large and spacious kitchens.
Sole, green asparagus and a Tomka brew was then Florian Stolte’s first dish. In his restaurant 1789 he dedicates himself to Far Eastern cuisines in various forms, as I was able to experience the night before. However, always very tender and in many dishes with classic, mostly French cooking techniques. An exciting balancing act, but one that works very well in the overall context of the house. Because of course, with all the modernity and exoticism, it is also important to take along and inspire the long-standing guests of the Traube Tonbach.
People generally think a lot about this bond here in the Black Forest. The menu of this evening is thus integrated free of charge as part of half board for hotel guests staying at least four nights. For me, who stayed only two nights, a total price of 178€ incl. of the accompanying wines called.
Scampi, oyster, caviar, kaffir and yuzu then the next course of Christian Kuchler. In conversation with the cooks, I later learn that the three of them have made many trips to Thailand together in recent years. This common preference thus creates a constant link in the menu sequence. This plate is particularly convincing for the quality of the products, again, of course, the caviar from Berlin.
Very elegant and clearly less Asian is the Farörer salmon with wild garlic, salt lemon and caper escabeche from Stefan Heilemann. The very welcome first hints of spring on a plate.
While the less experienced diners have already been pushed close to capacity with the previous courses, Kuchler and his team are preparing another bang for the buck: Black Angus with duck liver, baked tempura style. Impressive craftsmanship and (if you don’t occasionally go in and out of the Taverne zum Schäfli) so unseen.
The final is then left to the host. Ivoire chocolate, rhubarb, shiso sorbet. Already visually an incredible sensation!
Three petit fours then conclude the culinary part of the evening, before guests and kitchen teams join the Finkbeiner family for a drink or two.
During the day I was lucky enough to already photograph the dishes of the evening for the Swiss press, talk to the chefs and record the videos integrated in the article. Above all, I learned that I will add a few more kilometers south to my next trip to the Black Forest and definitely visit the rams and Schäffli in their natural habitat as well….
