We stopped for lunch in the amazingly spacious restaurant arranged around an equally large kitchen. Two menus are available, for the small appetite the menú Disfrutar (68€) and the total of 26 small plates menú Festival (98€), which we opted for.
The atmosphere is busy and at the same time very relaxed. This is due both to the large dining room, which is flooded with light during the day and borders on a large courtyard, and to the busy but also friendly, relaxed service team. There is no wine accompaniment to the menus, but there is a very extensive wine list with numerous open positions. We start the lunch with a bottle of cava and the first courses.
Even if you have not visited the elBulli, you may directly recognize one or the other first classics regularly colocated at that time. Both the transparent ravioli and the spherified olives were among the classics in Roses. And rightly so. Both dishes are typical representatives of molecular cuisine, but where this is not an end in itself, but brings out great flavors and textures. The ravioli, dipped in a Parmesan decoction for a few seconds before eating, bring the flavorful essence of a perfect pesto to the palate. And at the same time retain the textures of the components basil, pine nuts and Parmesan. The situation is similar with olives. The delicate coating is made of coconut butter. In the mouth, the olive melts and reveals its an intense liquid core that exudes a concentrated aroma of olive (not oil).
The egg is one of the other highlights in this menu. Egg and mushroom are a safe combination anyway, in this case textures again play a big role in accessing the flavor. The soft yolk is coated with a crispy shell, under which is a very intense jelly of mushroom stock. Fabulous.
The first and actually only dish in which the technically complex preparation is more a gimmick than a real contribution to the taste experience is the Macaroni Carbonara. The pasta is formed not from water, flour and egg, but from gelatin. The production is certainly elaborate and the idea is also pretty – however, authentic pasta is also characterized by the fact that it is produced in such a way that as much sauce as possible sticks to it. That’s exactly what doesn’t happen here; sauce and molecular pasta don’t want to form too close a bond. Thus, the non-taste of the transparent tubes penetrates again and again in between and irritates a bit. In its presentation and preparation at the table, nevertheless, a visually very appealing dish.
And no sooner have we arrived at the critical aspects than the only real slip of the menu comes directly: raw or lightly pickled vegetables, each accompanied by a special spice. To eat in predefined order. Neither particularly tasty, nor as refined as the description might suggest.
Five courses of fish followed. All between good and very good. What they all have in common is that they have combined the fish or the mussels in each case with new, sometimes unusual partners. Particularly noteworthy are the mussels with peas (again, not a real pea, but again small spheres that burst in the mouth and spread delicious, fresh pea aroma). Also visually a highlight. Likewise the red mullet under the light coat of guanciale.
The paper-thin slices of beef and foie gras push the usual eating utensils used in disfrutar somewhat to their limits: The guest is supposed to artfully form a ravioli with the tweezers, gently smash the foie gras into the tender meat, and then let it travel toward the mouth. Sounds difficult in theory, in practice it is almost impossible. Leaving that aspect aside, this is also a fabulous plate and a worthy conclusion to the savory courses.
The playful lightness and delight in artful presentation that makes a menu here so exceptional is also evident time and again in the desserts. The tangerine in its frozen peel directly awakens vacation memories of childhood days in Spain or Italy for me. The filling is of course infinitely more refined and is composed of a semifredo and a light jelly. And also the small corneto with cheesecake filling are not only beautiful, but also delicious. Crisp, fruity, fresh rather than sweet.
It is a real journey on which Oriol, Eduard and Mateu take their guests. A journey with many highlights, very few minor slips and exciting culinary discoveries, quotes and reminiscences of the elBulli era – but in a refreshing way also beyond. If you happen to be in Barcelona soon and can get hold of a table: Let’s go. It’s worth it!
