Besides all the tradition for which the house van Nahmen stands, it is at the same time very modern and very clear in terms of product philosophy. The focus is primarily on the single-variety juices. A huge effort. In the past, they used to make juice from the apples that were delivered and fill it into one of the huge tanks on the company’s premises. Today, the batches are much smaller. Thus, a large number of smaller tanks were created in the cellar, which are filled with juices from Jonagold, Kaiser Wilhelm, Roter Sternrenette, Rubinette or Schöner von Boskoop.
Now in autumn, of course, there is a lot of activity in the surrounding orchards and in the press house. Busy producers deliver their fruit. And there are many farmers nearby. Many farms. Agriculture as far as the eye can see. And because the product is so crucial for juice, perhaps even more crucial than for wine, they maintain contact with suppliers. Engage them. Guarantees above all the acceptance of their production. In this way, farmers can be convinced to let their fruit ripen longer. More sun, more fructose, more flavor. The balance is important. Sweetness and acidity should be in harmony so that the juice tastes balanced.
And if that’s not quite as balanced in a year, so be it. That’s how it is, nature. Explains Peter van Nahmen to me. Individual juices are labeled with their vintage of origin. We tasted Morellenfeuer, a cherry variety native to the Lower Rhine region in particular, from this year and from 2014. Indeed, a striking difference. 2015 was an excellent year for fruit, low acidity, the nose recognizes a complex bouquet of juicy ripe sour cherries, marzipan and hints of Mediterranean herbs, dark chocolate and black pepper. The Wild Plum is also a vintage juice. One of the few products that grows not in the immediate area, but high up on the mountains of Piedmont. Plum trees standing at 400 – 700 meters above sea level decide for themselves when the fruit is ripe and drop the fruit independently. These then fall into nets that are elaborately stretched under each tree. Currently, there are only 18 farmers left who harvest in such an elaborate way. The seeds of the plums are lightly pressed during pressing, releasing a delicate aroma of almonds that gives the juice that hint of marzipan that goes so well with the plum. The juice can be combined with food like not quite dry red wine and harmonizes best with braised dishes like ox cheeks on polenta with parsley root puree or with braised leg of lamb with ratatouille and potato gratin.
These detailed expertises and inspirations for suitable dishes and food pairings are no coincidence, but show the gradual entry of high-quality juices into top gastronomy. Together with Romana Echensperger, the German master sommelière, corresponding food recommendations and tasting notes were developed for over 30 of these juices and fruit sparkling wines. That it does not always have to be wine, we have recently experienced with the aroma menu of Christian Hümbs . Here, too, the focus was on alcohol-free accompaniments. Tea, but also juices and fruit sparkling wines. In particular, single-varietal juices with their individual aromas open up a new field for highly interesting combinations.
Of course, I didn’t miss the opportunity to take a closer look at quince, or more precisely Constantinople quince nectar, and to take a look at the expert reports. There you read, for example, that the ideal drinking temperature is 10 – 12°C. The juice, it continues, shines brilliantly and golden yellow in the glass. The bouquet is very complex and shows aromas of ripe lemons, candied ginger, ripe pears and hints of jasmine flower, anise, lemon balm and freshly cut grass. The palate initially reveals a fine sweetness, which ends in a pleasantly tart and dry finish thanks to fresh acidity and fine tannin. A subtle salty component and aromas of quince, jasmine flowers and mint linger on the finish. A complex and medium-bodied food companion. The juice should be drunk pure. If you absolutely want, you can mix it 1:1 with sparkling water. Then the bouquet becomes more restrained and the sweetness recedes even further into the background. On the palate, the flavors of ripe lemons and white flowers are emphasized. The juice is ideal with fine fish dishes such as roasted pike perch on mustard sauce and braised cucumbers, with fine meat dishes such as boiled beef or saltimbocca with Parma ham and sage.
With its polished nature and medium-bodied, apple quince can be combined like white Burgundy. For example, with crustaceans, truffled breast of guinea fowl or with noble fish such as turbot.
I would like to thank you for an exciting day in Hamminkeln and the opportunity to take a closer look at what is probably the best juice store in Germany.
