Last weekend we were invited to the still quite young Hamburg restaurant Trüffelschwein for a menu around Spanish olive oils. Both the menu and our first visit to Krill Kinfelt’s kitchen were excellent.
Trüffelschwein, located at Mühlenkamp in Hamburg Winterhude, is the project of Kirill Kinfelt , Lisa Müller and Jana Husemann. Kinfelt is no stranger to the business and has been through numerous well-known venues on land and even water. He has already cooked together with Thomas Bühner at La Vie in Osnabrück and at Hamburg’s Louis C. Jacob under Thomas Martin.
Incidentally, Thomas Bühner is also patron of the Olive Oils from Spain initiative and the associated tour of Germany. In his three-star restaurant, Spanish oils have long been part of the avant-garde, three-dimensional flavor cuisine and are used in a variety of ways. “Olive oils from Spain help us be creative and enhance the flavors of other ingredients, as well as cook gently and aromatically,” explains the renowned chef.
As part of this tour, Chef Kirill Kinfelt has created a 3-course menu using olive oils from Spain. He chose the spicy and full-bodied Picual, an olive oil made from the Spanish olive variety of the same name, to best bring out the flavors of all the other ingredients in the dishes. Salmon, radish and parsley in the appetizer and a composition of beef tenderloin, peppers, pulpo and artichoke in the main course. The menu sequence concludes with a gently spicy dessert of frozen goat cheese with Picual olive oil from Spain.
We were absolutely positively surprised. All the dishes in the menu were pleasing, and Kinfelt not only stands for a good combination of flavors and textures – the plating in particular, i.e. the presentation on the plate, was consistently first-class. Only afterwards, during a common and very sympathetic conversation, I learned about the exclusive stations of his career so far, but the trained eye and due diligence already knew about it during the menu. The service was also extremely friendly, open and very cordial.
The Olive Oils from Spain multi-sector association is a non-profit organization that represents the entire olive oil sector in Spain. The aim is to improve competitiveness and draw more attention to these excellent products.