In the immediate vicinity of the historic market square, the center of the beautiful old town of Pozna? is the restaurant Muga. It is directly connected to the Wine Bar Casa de Vinos, which has more than 300 wines in its portfolio. More than 30 of them are also on the restaurant’s menu by the glass, thanks to the Coravin system.
In fact, I had never been to Poland until a few weeks ago. However, business appointments have now brought me to Poznan for the second time within four weeks. On the last visit, there was enough time in the evening to take a look at the culinary landscape.
The Muga stands out from the local offer in several respects. The map has a very international layout. Products and preparation definitely have roots in Polish cuisine, but are combined with Asian influences and a lot of French technique. The ambience is extremely pleasant, the service perhaps a bit too formal and stiff – but thoroughly professional and competent. Incidentally, the name comes from the great enthusiasm of the chef for the great Rioja classic of the same name.
The choice can be made á la carte or in the form of a four- or six-course menu (about 50€, optional wine accompaniment 35€).
The menu begins with an amuse bouche of a cucumber foam with squid under a pleasantly spicy espuma of peppers and jalapeño. Fresh, intense and more exciting than the first glance suggests due to the strong roasted flavors of the squid.
The second little snack turns out to be a little less exciting. Under a fresh cucumber powder is whipped cream cheese.
Homemade bread and a whipped sour cream butter under Laksa dust bridge the short waiting time to the first official course.
And it is quite intense: snails, parsley, garlic and parsley root. The garlic is present both as a sauce and in the form of paper-thin slices on the snails in a light tempura coating. The parsley is worked in the form of jellied cubes. Together, they create a very coherent picture.
The really fine and elaborate product presentation is also evident in the next course: monkfish, mussels, fennel, celery, saffron. The mussels are used as a filling for the small ravioli, and the raw marinated celery goes very well with it, together with the dust from the fennel as a fresh component. The monkfish is unfortunately minimally overcooked and accordingly turns out a bit too soft. The saffron sauce harmonizes very well with mussel and monkfish, of course.
Beef Tartare is a typical dish of Polish cuisine. Here it is served in a beautiful version with oyster mushrooms, lovage, pearl onions and horseradish. The horseradish is combined here as fresh ice cream, along with small pearls of a lovage crème, scoops of the egg yolk, and small jelly cubes made from a vinegar broth. This is not only very fine and well thought out in terms of craftsmanship, but also very successful in terms of taste.
Pork belly, onion, apple, shiro, dashi and chokeberry is a more rustic course – but again very finely executed with Asian touches. The belly is long cooked and crispy seared. The fruity components contribute a suitable sweetness. The dashi broth is given a firmer texture by tapioca pearls and surrounds the pork belly. This is slightly to the detriment of the crispy rind – but fits very well in terms of taste. A taler made of slightly salty breadcrumbs is especially nice, and combines very well with the various small sauces and dabs.
The main course read a bit adventurous on the menu at first: sirloin steak, leeks, potatoes, sweetbreads, and Comté. But in fact, the steak is excellently cooked and has delicate toasty flavors – most importantly, it is strongly seasoned without crossing the line. This makes the combination with the Comté, which is served both as a foam and sliced, surprisingly well. A really unexpectedly good main course.
To finish on a sweet note, a small sorbet of sea buckthorn on crunchy almonds and coconut.
The last course is again well crafted, not too sweet and rather refreshing. Ginger gives a slight spicy note, the rhubarb a subtle acidity.
I’ll have to take a closer look at Poznan (and Poland in general) in the future – and the Muga is always worth a visit. Creative cuisine, good products, pleasant ambience – and all this at a price/performance ratio that would be unimaginable in our country.
Poznań ul. Krysiewicza 5
Phone: +48 61 8551 035
E-mail: rezerwacja@restauracjamuga.pl
