Kochfreunde.com is the culinary magazine of Oliver Wagner. Here, everything revolves around the almost most beautiful thing in the world: good food. The focus ranges from reports on exciting restaurants to recipes from his own kitchen, cookbooks and culinary gadgets.


Kochfreunde.com ist das kulinarisches Magazin von Oliver Wagner. Hier dreht sich alles rund um die beinahe schönste Sache der Welt: Gutes Essen. Dabei reicht der Fokus von Berichten über spannende Restaurants bis hin zu Rezepten aus der eigenen Küche, Kochbücher und kulinarische Gadgets.

Stüffel, Hamburg

When I was a little boy, I loved to play tennis. Mostly. In any case, back then in Paderborn I liked to stop at the clubhouse, because in addition to the world’s best Spezi, there was the Brown Bear or a Dolomiti in the ice chest. In addition, cooking was done here. And not bad at all, at least that’s my memory of childhood days. Vine snails with garlic in the obligatory clay pan, for example. And many specialties from the Croatian homeland of the hosts.

And now, many years later, I have found a modern equivalent of this culinary clubhouse reflex in Hamburg. However, neither the Brown Bear nor the 80s vineyard snail is on the agenda here, but contemporary modern cuisine in a chic setting. Nestled in the grounds of the tennis club SV Bergstedt.

Restaurateur and sommelier Ondrej Kovar pitched his tents here almost exactly a year ago and opened the Stüffel restaurant. The culinary director is Marcel Görke, who previously cooked at the Süllberg and also made his contribution to the award of the second star there.

In general, Marcel Görke is currently on the culinary fast track. For the tenth Cooktank der Sternefresser in Munich, he was able to secure one of the coveted wildcards and convinced us and, above all, the other chefs on site with a quite outstanding version of the classic Hamburg eel soup.

Marcel Görke in action
Marcel Görke in action
Hamburg eel soup
Hamburg eel soup

And of course, his signature is also clearly evident at Stüffel: the menu, which changes weekly, offers many regional and seasonal products – and an extremely fair calculation. Three courses are already available for 33€, for four courses sensational 39€ are called. Ondrej Kova’s wine list is also very well calculated and has some exciting items.

Baked calf’s head, pointed cabbage salad, stewed fruit apple cider vinegar
Fried mackerel, green spelt, braised cucumber, apple, pea broth
Open lasagna, pumpkin, herb seedlings, spice foam
Entrecôte of ox, mushrooms, tomato bread salad
Summer berries basil, mint broth, air chocolate

Even though I haven’t actively played tennis in a long time, I finally have a reason to go to a tennis venue on a regular basis again – and who knows, maybe I’ll pack my rackets again sometime and try to burn off at least a few of the calories before dinner. V
Restaurant Stüffel
Stüffel 8
22395 Hamburg

Tel.: 040 / 609 0205-0
E-mail: info@restaurantstueffel.de

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