And now, many years later, I have found a modern equivalent of this culinary clubhouse reflex in Hamburg. However, neither the Brown Bear nor the 80s vineyard snail is on the agenda here, but contemporary modern cuisine in a chic setting. Nestled in the grounds of the tennis club SV Bergstedt.
Restaurateur and sommelier Ondrej Kovar pitched his tents here almost exactly a year ago and opened the Stüffel restaurant. The culinary director is Marcel Görke, who previously cooked at the Süllberg and also made his contribution to the award of the second star there.
In general, Marcel Görke is currently on the culinary fast track. For the tenth Cooktank der Sternefresser in Munich, he was able to secure one of the coveted wildcards and convinced us and, above all, the other chefs on site with a quite outstanding version of the classic Hamburg eel soup.
And of course, his signature is also clearly evident at Stüffel: the menu, which changes weekly, offers many regional and seasonal products – and an extremely fair calculation. Three courses are already available for 33€, for four courses sensational 39€ are called. Ondrej Kova’s wine list is also very well calculated and has some exciting items.
Even though I haven’t actively played tennis in a long time, I finally have a reason to go to a tennis venue on a regular basis again – and who knows, maybe I’ll pack my rackets again sometime and try to burn off at least a few of the calories before dinner. V
Tel.: 040 / 609 0205-0