Kochfreunde.com is the culinary magazine of Oliver Wagner. Here, everything revolves around the almost most beautiful thing in the world: good food. The focus ranges from reports on exciting restaurants to recipes from his own kitchen, cookbooks and culinary gadgets.


Kochfreunde.com ist das kulinarisches Magazin von Oliver Wagner. Hier dreht sich alles rund um die beinahe schönste Sache der Welt: Gutes Essen. Dabei reicht der Fokus von Berichten über spannende Restaurants bis hin zu Rezepten aus der eigenen Küche, Kochbücher und kulinarische Gadgets.

The Off Club and Madame X

At the end of last year, Tim Mälzer opened the doors of his latest venture on the site of the former power plant in Hamburg Bahrenfeld: The Off Club. Mälzer once again remains true to the combination of small, less expensive (daily) dishes in the front deli or here at the front bar and more elaborate courses and menus in the restaurant, which was already extraordinarily successful in the Bullerei.

Madame X is the name of the culinary and plush red centerpiece of the new location, which, by the way, was home to Chezfou until last fall. Although it was always one of my favorite places in Hamburg, the great influx of guests unfortunately failed to materialize.


The new location is managed by Philipp Jüngling and Thomas Imbusch. Both have already worked closely with Mälzer at the Bullerei in recent years, Phillip as head of the deli and Thomas as sous chef in the restaurant. In the future, both will develop a monthly changing menu here at the Off Club, always with a different focus. January was all about Japan, the corresponding menu Japan authentic is served in 7 courses (65€ in the basic version).

PULPO duck broth / onion / carrot
Duck broth / onion / carrot

Thomas Imbusch serves almost every course personally and often has a story or two to tell, either about the product, the preparation or, as in the case of the pulpo with duck broth, something about the creation of the dish.

TOFU Teriyaki / Seaweed / Kimitsu
Teriyaki / seaweed / kimitsu
Madame X
Madame X


Often, small additional courses are slipped in outside the menu, such as this small but delicious Osuimono soup, into which a raw egg yolk is stirred.

SASHIMI Yellowfin Mackerel / Arctic Char
Yellowfin mackerel / Arctic char

The raw fish was impeccable, though the pieces were clearly cut too large to be eaten elegantly with chopsticks. Unfortunately, this was the case throughout the entire menu. Not really bad, but think for example of the scene from Jiro Dreams of Sushi in which he shows how he always adjusts the size of the sushi for each guest individually, some a little smaller, others a little larger. That, too, is actually part of “Authentic Japan,” at least as I understand it. A part that was missing in Madame X, however.

GYOZA pork belly / black garlic
Pork belly / black garlic

As you know, I love gyoza and dim sum in all variations. And I could also eat the Madame X version filled with some pork belly as a complete main course. Delicious, lightly toasted and with intense filling.

AUSTER tapioca / coriander hollandaise
Tapioca / coriander hollandaise
Pssst. | Thomas presents the noble Wagyu.
Shhh. | Thomas presents the noble Wagyu.

The actual highlight of the menu then followed with the grilled Wagyu. We had the option to order an upgrade to the regularly scheduled meat (Waygu level 6 out of 10). For an extra charge of 35€ per person. No bargain, but at the price per kilo perhaps even fairly calculated. Of course, we opted for this variant and were rewarded with a real treat. Delicately melting and very aromatic.

WAGYU 09 from charcoal grill / green shot / fried rice
from charcoal grill / green shot / fried rice


AZUKIBOHNE/GALGANT bean cream / ginger broth / sorbet
Bean cream / ginger broth / sorbet

Both pre-dessert and the actual dessert around the cream of azuki beans and the galgan ice cream also lived up to the theme and sent us off into the night after a really good evening.

The Madame X is without question a welcome addition to Hamburg’s gastronomy, of course there are still some things that can be optimized and improved – but it’s just getting started. The next menu, I heard, will be conceived under the theme “Craft”. I am curious…


Off Club
Madame X (Wed-Sat only)
Leverkusenstr. 54
22761 Hamburg
Phone: +49 (0)40 890 19 333

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