Elegant, luxurious, expensive, sophisticated, modern, rustic, middle-class, inexpensive. This is how Wolfram Siebeck likes to be quoted, it calls for a quick but precise description of the Landhaus Scherrer. According to Siebeck, it thus virtually epitomizes everything that made Hamburg’s gastronomy both successful and controversial.
For 30 years now, Heinz Otto Wehmann has been in charge of the house kitchen and runs the business together with Emmi Scherrer. A house with tradition, therefore, where many successful and well-known chefs have already made a stop – and in the last week, finally us.
For the last days of the Hamburg Schlemmersommer, we reserved a table and opted for the four-course organic menu (€29 per person plus optional wine accompaniment for €36.50). An excellent offer, considering that the menus here usually have significantly more courses, but are also priced above the 100€ mark.
Rarely have I made such a hasty judgment, rarely have I been so wrong. The ambience, the service, even the menu, tables and place settings, all I found slightly antiquated, a little out of fashion perhaps.
We started the culinary part of the evening with an organic tomato greeting á la Wehmann. Three kinds of tomato, then. What at first sounds less than spectacular turned out to be exceptionally delicious. Clearly defined aromas, excellently prepared in terms of craftsmanship, a good and summery start.
Afterwards, a house-pickled St. Patrick organic salmon was served, along with a small green salad with excellent dressing, as well as a small tartar of salmon and a deep-fried praline of salmon.
The highlight of the evening, the Krosse Vierländer duck with organic vegetables, was served by Heinz Wehmann himself.
And at the latest now I was enthusiastic about the country house Scherer. Everything that seemed antiquated and slightly out of fashion at the beginning makes sense. Probably not much has changed in the last 20 years. But it doesn’t necessarily have to. On the contrary, perhaps that’s exactly what makes it so appealing, the maintenance of its own standards, the consistent focus on quality and on longevity instead of reacting to short-lived trends.
At least these were some fleeting thoughts as I pondered the fantastic duck that lay bedded on fresh vegetables, surrounded by a light sauce and combined with two sweet cherries in front of us.
The small dessert, a crème brûlée with crispy base and marinated organic fruits was also excellent.
The visit to Landhaus Scherrer showed two things: On the one hand, it is possible to offer a very good and clearly as a recommendation and business card for the respective house speaking and individual tasting menu. Enthused by Heinz Wehmann’s clear and straightforward cuisine, we will certainly walk the 800m to the Elbchaussee again soon, but then with the prospect of one of the larger menus of the house.
My insight of the evening, however, that sticking to long-held traditions and one’s own standards can make perfect sense, doesn’t really apply to the tradition of place settings at Landhaus Scherrer….
Country house Scherrer
Tel.: 040 – 883070030