Our dinner at L’atelier de Robuchon was both a birthday gift and the culmination of our family trip to Paris. After two days at Disneyland, we thirsted not only for a good hotel, after returning to civilization, but also for a good meal. In preparation for the latter, we had already made reservations at L’atelier a few weeks ago.
Since it already led me almost five years ago to a stove of the grand master and chef of the century (Thomas Knüwer reported on our impressions at the time), I initially flirted with alternatives, of which Paris has an incredible number to offer. So I talked to the Agapé Substance and the Sola. Since in August, however, virtually all of Paris has flown out, a large part of the restaurants closed, ergo, both alternatives were out of the question – which in the end was not a pity at all.
Our reservation was initially scheduled for 18:30, even on telephone request it seems impossible to make a binding reservation for a later time. So we took the risk of arriving almost three hours later. This lowered the percentage of tourists significantly – and we were very lucky to get the last two free seats at the bar.
As is the principle at L’ateliers, you sit at the counter with the best view of the open kitchen, in our case in joyful anticipation of the 10-course menu Découverte (á 169,- EUR).
The event started with a small greeting from the kitchen in the form of an asparagus soup. Delicious, pretty and a nice light start.
Fine Catalan gaspacho dressed among herbs and flowers. Light and summery.
The caviar is draped on a slice of potato in a bed of crème aigre, surrounded by wonderfully strong olive oil from Provence. A very reduced and unpretentious presentation with focus on the excellent components. A pleasant anticipation of the coming courses sets in – in this direction it may please continue.
The Gyoza or also Jiaozi is an Asian relative of the Maultausche or also the Pelmeni loved by me yes very much.In our case with a poultry filling, slightly grilled and served in a light and very aromatic fruity Asian broth. Overall good, but a bit unusual in this setting, perhaps a bit too rough. Meanwhile, however, the quality of the accompanying wines just picks up significantly, mineral and very coherent.
My first real highlight. I had already read about the roasted foie gras. In combination with the pickled cherries and the hibiscus sauce a dream, wonderful craftsmanship.
The egg first hides under a foamed créme in the cocktail glass. Together with the chanterelles forms an interesting combination, perhaps a bit lush overall.
Unfortunately, we observed an effect at this point, the pattern of which we noticed even more frequently in the course of the evening: The two cocktail glasses were handed to us by the very friendly and lively service with the words “And then here comes your Piña Colada. No, just kidding, of course” served. Thus, various rehearsed gags ran through our menu, almost in the same wording sooner or later to be heard at the neighboring tables. This is a bit of a pity, but must be attributed to the concept of wanting to appear relaxed, witty and not at all stiff.
Le rouget relevé d’une vierge condimentée sur un émulsion douce au curcuma. Not only reads fantastic, we also liked it very much. An interesting and powerful combination, complemented with an intense tapenade in addition to the turmeric – and of course fried exactly to the point. The wine continues to rise in parallel.
For the meat course, there was a choice of three dishes, the Agneau de lait (Milk Lamb), La caille farcie de foie gras et caramélisée avec une pomme purée trufflée (Quail) or the Black Angus. Although the first two are true Robuchon classics, I opted for the beef.
Fortunately, I was still able to see and taste the small lamb chops. A dream, of course. Through the small tied thyme bouquet also very nicely presented.
The Black Angus filet was also wonderful, perfectly cooked and near perfect in its simple, pared-down elegance.
A good time for the first dessert in the form of small, highly aromatic strawberries with an ice cream from the Tahiti vanilla.
Followed by Le chocolat tendance, an intense combination of an Araguani ganache with an ice cream made of Grué de Cacao, that is, roasted and crushed cocoa beans under fine traces of Oreo.
To sum up, our Découverte menu gave a good insight into the principle and undoubted quality of L’atelier de Robuchon. Maintaining this level worldwide and consistently deserves the highest respect. An unqualified recommendation, both for the reasonably priced menu, but certainly also for the various other dishes we saw at the counter elsewhere in between. Mercie bien!
