Along with eighteen other guests and a kitchen crew that works like clockwork. Precise, silent, exact. And a service team around Mâitre and Sommelier David Eitel, which also radiates visible joy about the new place of work. Gone are the days of high pile carpeting with woven patterns. At The Table, crew and guests meet at eye level. Separated only by a long cherry-wood counter, gently curved in organic curves, it provides a sensible division of space: one third for the guests, two thirds of the room for the actors.
It should be the great night of shooting stars. We did not see a single one. Once again too many clouds over Hamburg. Instead, stars twinkled above Shanghaiallee 15, within reach.
The greatest continuity with La Belle Epoque, from which almost the entire team has moved to Hamburg in recent weeks, is maintained on the plates. Far more than echoes of the three-star cuisine from Travemünde can be found here, essentially even a continuation of the last menu from the Belle Epoque. And it makes sense to take this process of transformation slowly. On the one hand, because the kitchen offers the same craftsmanship and creativity at the very highest level, and on the other hand, because it is nothing less than Kevin Fehling’s signature anyway. And ultimately also because this very cuisine is highly decorated and in its consistency quite blatantly sends loud question marks in the direction of Guide Michelin and Gault Millau.
The menu (180€) does not ask. The only agony of choice for the guest is between the great wine accompaniment of David Eitel or the selection according to his own taste. Between 35€ and 3,000€ per bottle, the spectrum of the wine list circling around France and Germany.
However – and I was particularly excited about this – we had asked in advance for a vegetarian equivalent in addition to the current menu in seven courses. For most courses, individual components were exchanged for the vegetarian version and the focus shifted. But one or the other course was also completely new.
Things got underway with a fireworks display of small, perfectly crafted amuse-gueules. As a little gag, the incredibly light and delicate macaron is enthroned on a miniature of the counter together with the cracker from the sardine. A very light, almost fragile attack full of Mediterranean aromas and freshness.
The oyster is accompanied with plenty of light freshness and acidity and, along with the great fish roll, actually a bonito meringue with hamachi or mackerel, sets the mood for the following courses from the water.
A classic of French cuisine. Here completely reinterpreted and served as a top hat. The cognac, actually an integral part of the preparation of the sauce, is here bedded in the form of pearls on the sauce, which in turn is enthroned on the delicious lobster.
The glazed eel with strong Asian hints concludes the round of amuse-gueules on a wonderfully fluffy steamed Chinese bun.
In the background we could already observe how the last hand was put on the mackerel. In general, the service concept is very exciting. The total of twenty guests take their comfortable stools at the bar with a time offset of 30 minutes. At 19:30 or at 20:00. The gears are sent alternately. This way, the team in the kitchen can always focus on producing one course for every 10 guests, while the other group of guests are already enjoying themselves. This approach contributes to the tranquility of the open kitchen described at the outset.
The first official course is fabulous. A great fish, strongly marked by the smoke flavors of the intense fire treatment. Fresh radish is a great match, a dashi broth adds a depth of flavor, and the snow of horseradish contributes a delicate spiciness. A part served still finds a tartar of mackerel, discreetly presented under a soy caviar in sea urchins. On the vegetarian side, a great composition was put together around the radish from all the fish-free components.
Some time ago Fehling served in Travemünde The forms of gold: bars, nuggets, coin & dust, a great presentation of foie gras in the form of a gold bar. The foie gras here is again pressed into shape. Due to the smallness of the shape not quite so perfect. Visually, of course, the metaphor fits perfectly with the thai-style of this aisle. Fruity, slightly spicy, sour and surprisingly intense are the flavors that emanate from the small elements and can be combined and recombined again and again. On the vegetarian side, foie gras and Norway lobster are not really missing to the taste experience.
The next course is certainly the most challenging combination of the evening. Exceptional. And very exciting. The Jaokob mussel is served in a total of three preparations. Lightly sautéed in a woodruff broth, marinated raw and served as tartare, also in a cylinder. The combination with rabarber, woodruff and strawberry plays with the sweet nuances without letting them come too much to the fore. Next door, the three protagonists were centered around green asparagus instead of the scallop. Also very appropriate.
The carabineros, the queen of shrimp, along with many other products of the evening, illustrate the philosophy of the house: A regional cuisine with references to Nordic Cuisine, as it is currently very fashionable, one looks in The Table fortunately in vain. Critical minds may consider this to be out of time. But you can’t help but realize that this form of creativity is only possible within a framework that is free of dogmas and restrictions. Cosmopolitan, is how Kevin Fehling describes this style.
It’s heading towards the finals. The tranche from the breast of the French duck is perfectly cooked (sous-vide), nestled under its paper-thin, crispy and fat-free skin. In combination with the shisojus and the rice cream, slight Asian associations arise here as well. The raspberry and a rice vinegar hollandaise provide balance on this plate.
Next door, the vegetarian menu featured a very tender and light dish with homemade pasta and a light sauce under fresh herbs.
At first glance, the first dessert reminded me a bit of my recent trips to Spain. Several times I have encountered olive spurs there as a reference to the elBulli. These delicious specimens, however, do not have a liquid center, but a marzipan-like chocolate-almond ganache. Visually so present at first but taste sensational the tarragon ice cream on almond crumble.
We did not miss the shooting stars that evening. Quite the opposite. The subtle glow of the perfectly aligned Occhio Sospeso spots above the curved table is light enough for us. Add to that the sparking energy of the new location in Hamburg, the enthusiasm of the whole team for this new, big challenge. Without question, one of the best culinary destinations this country has to offer is emerging here. A look into the future of fine dining in Germany. Free from the balast of bygone years of high-end gastronomy. No tribute to the moneyed environment in five-star hotels. No cheese trolley, no tablecloths, no exuberant pageantry, but a clear focus on what goes on the plate – and an unobstructed view of its preparation.
The Table Kevin Fehling
ShanghaiAllee 15
20457 Hamburg
www.the-table-hamburg.de
